When people think about Morocco, the image that most often comes to mind is of ‘the blue city’ with its vivid blue houses with red-tile roofs. They may not know the name of the town, but they can picture it. Indeed, Chefchaouen is the reason many tourists travel to Morocco. They need to see for themselves whether it really is as picturesque and atmospheric as it appears in the brochures and guidebooks. It had certainly been on our bucket list for years. When we finally made it there as part of our Intrepid tour around Morocco, the famous blue city did not disappoint. Read on for an account of our visit and my recommendations for the best things to do in Chefchaouen.
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The Best Time to Visit Chefchaouen
Being such a tourist magnet, Chefchaouen can quickly become overrun with visitors. With Instagrammable spots around every turn, it’s a photographer’s dream. This dream can soon turn into a nightmare, though, if you’re having to queue up to get your shot or push your way through crowds in order to see a particularly beautiful doorway. Fellow bloggers have told me that they really didn’t enjoy the city because it was just too busy.
All I can advise is that you visit in spring or autumn. Temperatures are cooler and the crowds are fewer. Don’t get me wrong, there will still be tourists, but you will be able to walk around with ease and interact with locals without being hassled too much.
We were in Chefchaouen in October. We loved it! We especially enjoyed exploring the alleyways of the medina in the early morning before the usual influx of daytrippers.
History of Chefchaouen
Moulay Ali ben Rachid founded Chaouen in 1471 as a base for Berber tribes to launch attacks on the Portuguese. The town expanded when Muslim and Jewish refugees arrived from Granada in 1494. It was these people who built the whitewashed houses with balconies, tiled roofs and patios (often with a citrus tree in the middle) that give the town its distinctive Spanish feel.
Chefchaouen remained isolated and xenophobic (Christians who entered the city were executed) until the city was occupied by Spanish troops in 1920. They remained until independence in 1956.
The famous blue paint used on most buildings today was only introduced in the 1930s. Prior to that, doors and windows were painted the traditional Muslim green, as is still the case in the holy city of Moulay Idriss.
Chefchouen Today
Originally called Chaouen, meaning ‘peaks’, the name of the city was changed to Chefchaouen, meaning ‘look at the peaks’, in 1975. Today, both names are used interchangeably.
Chefchaouen is undoubtedly one of the prettiest towns in Morocco. It has an other-worldly feel with its arts and crafts and blue-washed buildings. Many residents, especially the ladies, still wear traditional costume. At times. it can feel like you’ve wandered onto a movie set.
For all that, the city is authentic. Real people live here. They work, study, and raise their families. Tourists are privileged to get glimpses into the lives of ordinary Moroccans as they go about their business, doing their laundry in the river or cooking lunch on outdoor barbecues.
In recent years, Chefchaouen has shed its image as a haven for hippies and backpackers, somewhere to come to buy and smoke cannabis. The town has gentrified and offers a good range of accommodation and some amazing restaurants. It’s a great place to relax for a few days and to take the time to explore the cool green hills which surround the town.
Our Visit to Chefchaouen
We left Fez by minibus for the five-hour journey to Chefchaouen. We passed through stunning scenery on the way, stopping at a dam to take some photos.
As we approached the blue city, we stopped again to capture the view of the whole town. It was breathtaking!
Our Accommodation
We stayed at the picturesque Hotel dar Echaoun located just outside the old medina. Once we passed through the large wooden door, we found ourselves in a beautiful garden with an inviting swimming pool and vibrant pink bougainvillaea flowers everywhere. It was stunning – and just what we needed after the delicious craziness of Fez!
After enjoying a refreshing glass of mint tea and a plate of peanut biscuits, we were shown to our room. It was very clean and comfortable with traditional Moroccan furnishings and fabrics.
There was a restaurant on site, but Mark and I chose to eat out on each of the nights we were there. We didn’t want to miss out on the lively atmosphere in the medina. If breakfast was anything to go by, though, the food was freshly prepared and delicious!
Search here for somewhere to stay in Chefchaouen:
Orientation Walk around Chefchaouen
After an hour to freshen up and settle in, Hamid led us on a walk into town. We had plenty of free time here, so the idea was to give us an idea of where everything was.
The town’s alleyways are all steep and winding, but so full of character! There is a photo opportunity around every corner. We absolutely loved it!
Dinner on our First Evening
Following our walk, a group of us took Hamid’s recommendation and ate in La Lampe Magique, one of the rooftop restaurants just off the main square in the medina, Plaza Uta el-Hammam. We enjoyed a panoramic view of the blue city as the sun was setting and got to try a local speciality as a starter – homemade goat’s cheese with fig chutney. Delicious!!
A Free Day in Chefchaouen
The next morning, we were up early to take advantage of the opportunity to photograph Chefchaouen before the town came to life, and before hoards of tourists descended! It was so peaceful strolling through the streets and alleyways, stopping to chat to shopkeepers as they displayed their goods for sale.
We did some souvenir shopping for friends and family and bought a beautiful woollen carpet hand-made in a Berber village in the High Atlas Mountains. We rarely make purchases like this as we are on the road so much, but sometimes it’s impossible not to!
We spent the afternoon relaxing at our hotel and enjoying the pool before retracing our steps to the medina to have dinner in the main square and watch the world go by. We feasted on local rabbit stew with figs followed by homemade almond tart served with good strong coffee. We needed the steep climb back to the hotel to walk it off!
The Best Things to do in Chefchaouen
Lose Yourself in the Medina
As in many Moroccan cities, one of the best things to do is to wander around the medina. Chefchaouen’s medina is one of the loveliest in Morocco. Its walls have recently been repaired. Inside, the narrow alleyways are kept scrupulously clean by house-proud locals. The famous blue-painted buildings are bewitching and pots full of vibrant blooms only add to the beauty of the place.
Spend a few hours exploring and taking photos. The colours are stunning! The medina is compact enough that you can’t get too lost!
Have a Coffee in Plaza Uta el-Hammam
The heart of the medina is the shady, cobbled Plaza Uta el-Hammam which is lined with cafés and restaurants. They all have similar menus, so your choice may be swayed by which of the waiters is most persuasive! Whichever establishment you choose, it’s the perfect spot to rest your tired legs and watch the world go by.
Visit the Kasbah
- Opening hours – 9am to noon and 3 – 6.30pm every day except Tuesday
- Entrance fee – Dh10
The kasbah is located on one side of the Plaza Uta el-Hammam. It’s a heavily restored walled fortress which now houses a small ethnographic museum with old photos of Chefchaouen and an art gallery that promotes the work of local artists. There is also a lovely garden to enjoy.
The views over the medina from the top of the kasbah tower are amazing!
Admire the Grande Mosquée
This mosque in the main square is closed to non-Muslims, but it’s worth a look from the outside because of its unusual octagonal tower. It was built in the 15th century by the son of Ali ben Rachid who founded Chefchaouen.
Walk up to the Spanish Mosque
This landmark is located on a hill overlooking the medina. It’s an easy walk up to it along clear paths. At the top, you will be rewarded with fantastic views of the whole of Chefchaouen.
The mosque was built by the Spanish in the 1920s but never used. It has recently been restored and there are plans to open it as a cultural centre, but its doors remained firmly closed when we were there.
Watch Local Life at Ras el-Maa
Just beyond the northeastern gate of Chefchaouen’s medina is the Ras el-Maa waterfall. This is where local women come to do their laundry. An enterprising resident has set up a cafe which has its tables and chairs actually in the flowing water. Take off your shoes and cool your feet as you enjoy a freshly-squeezed orange juice!
More Photos of Chefchaouen’s Medina
READ MY COMPLETE MOROCCO TRAVEL GUIDE
Further Reading About Morocco
Check out my Morocco colouring books!
Unlike most colouring books on the market, mine, suitable for both adults and older children, are full of line images created from photos I have taken on my travels. This means that they are highly detailed. They are not line drawings where you can colour between every line. The pictures invite you to be creative. Apply a colour wash with watercolour. Use coloured pencils to create texture. Blend colours together. Add detail with a fine ink pen. The choice is yours! Create your own work of art! When you’re happy, remove it from the book. Stick it on the fridge as a reminder of a place you’ve already been to or somewhere that’s on your bucket list. You could even get it framed. Display it on the wall for people to admire.
Here is a selection of my Morocco titles:
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